Courrèges SS25: Bold Minimalism, Sleek Silhouettes, and Nicolas Di Felice’s Visionary Couture Influence

Di Felice didn’t shy away from edgier, provocative designs in the SS25 collection. As the show progressed, the music’s intensity mirrored the bolder outfits that followed. Rectangular crop tops, cut daringly to reveal midriffs and barely covering cleavage, made a confident statement about the body and freedom. The bold, sensual cuts balanced the architectural precision seen in other garments, creating a harmonious fusion of structure and fluidity.

The eveningwear retained this fearless attitude but infused it with sophistication. One standout was a sheer off-white dress that skimmed the body, creating a sensual yet elegant aesthetic that hinted at luxury through its subtle play on transparency. A black dress embellished with delicate, glittering diamonds epitomized modern glamour, offering a glimpse into the future of eveningwear where simplicity meets opulence.

Accessories played a vital role in amplifying the minimalist, space-age aesthetic of the collection. Black bug-eyed sunglasses were paired with many of the looks, adding a retro-futuristic vibe that recalled Courrèges’ heritage while feeling current. Minimalist shoulder bags, sleek in design, complemented the streamlined outfits without detracting from the overall aesthetic. The accessories were as much about utility as they were about style, reinforcing the collection's emphasis on practicality.

Since taking over as artistic director in 2020, Nicolas Di Felice has skillfully navigated the challenge of reviving Courrèges' identity, transforming the brand from a nostalgic, heritage label to a modern cult favorite. Under his direction, Courrèges has regained relevance, becoming a go-to for fashion-forward celebrities like Beyoncé, who donned Courrèges pieces during her Renaissance Tour. This SS25 collection is a testament to Di Felice’s success in breathing new life into the house, merging its iconic futurism with wearable elegance.

In many ways, the SS25 collection marked Di Felice’s triumphant return to Courrèges following his recent stint as guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture show. During the June couture week, Di Felice surprised audiences with a successful Courrèges couture show that mixed his minimalist aesthetic with the storytelling and ornamentation of haute couture. His experience with couture seemingly influenced his ready-to-wear collection, particularly in the use of luxurious materials and intricate textures.

The influence of Jean Paul Gaultier on Di Felice’s work was evident in SS25, particularly in the bold textures and unconventional materials used. While the collection retained Courrèges' minimalist DNA, it was enriched with elements of luxury and surprise, much like Gaultier’s own work. From flannel shirts that sculpted the body with couture-like precision to the intricate laser-cut leather that resembled sequins, there was an interplay between everyday functionality and high-fashion craftsmanship. These pieces exemplified the designer’s ethos of creating clothes that make you look twice – garments that reveal new layers upon closer inspection.

Di Felice’s use of monochromatic color palettes and streamlined silhouettes was another nod to his experience in couture, where every detail must be meticulously considered. Yet, despite the high level of craftsmanship, the clothes remained approachable, resonating with the everyday “adventure of the everyday” that Di Felice sought to convey through his collection.