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2024

Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples

Acne Studios’ SS25 collection, inspired by artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase, reimagines domesticity with distorted wardrobe staples and surreal, exaggerated proportions. Jonny Johansson blends everyday wear with surrealism, featuring playful yet sophisticated designs like oversized blazers, warped denim, and crochet ballet shoes. The collection explores the familiar home environment through a psychedelic, avant-garde lens.

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Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples
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Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples

For Spring/Summer 2025, Acne Studios’ creative director, Jonny Johansson, reimagined and distorted the concept of home, blending domestic comfort with surrealism and subversion. The collection was inspired by a visit to Philadelphia-based visual artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase's 2023 exhibition Now I’m Home, Lips That Know My Name, held at the Sadie Coles gallery. Known for his vibrant depictions of queer Black bodies and everyday domestic scenes, Chase's art introduced Johansson to the possibility of transforming ordinary household elements into something playful, abstract, and layered with meaning. In response, Johansson crafted a collection that explored both the familiarity and discomfort embedded within the domestic realm.

Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples
Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples
Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples

The SS25 show itself was infused with Jonathan Lyndon Chase’s aesthetic. Upon entering the showspace, guests encountered everyday household objects—chairs, pillows, lamps, picture frames, and more—painted with vibrant figures, graffiti, and contrasting colors. These art pieces gave the show an avant-garde atmosphere, as if ordinary domestic items had come alive with their own stories, emotions, and surreal energy. The show felt familiar, yet deeply distorted, much like Chase’s depictions of home life in his artwork.

The domestic setting Johansson constructed served as the backdrop for the collection, emphasizing the intersection between the mundane and the fantastical. It represented a space where home—typically a symbol of comfort—was subverted and abstracted into something bizarre and complex. Household items became more than just furniture or objects; they were imbued with a sense of personality and life, contributing to a visually immersive experience.

Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples
Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples
Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples

Building on the theme of home, Johansson translated this distortion and subversion into the clothes themselves. Basic wardrobe staples—such as jeans, jumpers, and tailored pieces—were deconstructed, manipulated, and reimagined in ways that challenged traditional proportions and design conventions. The result was a playful yet subversive collection that felt like a blend of everyday comfort and surreal exaggeration.

For instance, tailored shapes were enlarged to cartoonish proportions, turning traditional blazers and trousers into overblown, exaggerated silhouettes. These pieces took on a playful, almost childlike quality, as though someone had raided an adult’s closet and donned oversized, ill-fitting garments. The effect was fun, disorienting, and entirely in line with the distorted sense of home Johansson was aiming for.

Jumpers, too, had a haphazard quality, appearing twisted and stretched as though they had been carelessly thrown on after a long night out. This added to the overall feeling of disarray and nonchalance in the collection. The knitted pieces were intentionally distressed, showcasing a moth-bitten texture that gave them an edge of high-fashion deconstruction. The imperfections in these garments highlighted Acne Studios’ ability to take everyday wear and transform it into something deliberately undone, yet still chic.

Denim was another key component of the collection, but not as one might expect. Instead of traditional jeans, Johansson presented warped, wiggly versions that seemed to have been inspired by funhouse mirrors. The distorted shapes added an element of whimsy to the collection, furthering the playful take on domesticity.

Plaid shirts and skirts, iconic symbols of casual home life, were also given the surreal treatment. These garments, resembling picnic blankets or old flannel shirts, were transformed into abstract, reconfigured looks. Johansson’s designs turned these familiar pieces into something new and unexpected, mixing nostalgia with innovation.

Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples
Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples
Acne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe StaplesAcne Studios SS25: A Surreal, Playful Take on Domesticity and Wardrobe Staples

The overall effect of the SS25 collection was a psychedelic journey through a distorted version of home life. Johansson’s designs took familiar elements of domesticity and twisted them into something far more abstract and unpredictable. It was as if the viewer had consumed something mind-altering and was seeing the world—particularly the home space—through a new, warped lens.

This psychedelic effect was reinforced by the vibrant, contrasting colors used throughout the collection, as well as the whimsical, almost hallucinatory nature of the silhouettes. The collection felt like a mix between a dream and a memory, where nothing is quite as it seems, and everything is open to interpretation.

While the collection was largely focused on reimagining everyday staples, it also included evening wear that echoed the same subversive, surreal qualities. A standout piece was an off-white, sheer dress with a hemline that seemed to dance around the body as the model walked. This dress was sensual, yet playful, offering a sultry reinterpretation of traditional evening wear. Similarly, a black dress embellished with tiny diamonds exuded modern elegance but maintained the sense of unpredictability that ran throughout the collection.

These evening pieces retained the balance between wearability and artistic innovation, showcasing Johansson’s ability to create clothes that are not only beautiful but also thought-provoking. The dresses felt like a continuation of the distorted domestic theme, as though they had been plucked from a surreal version of a home closet and reimagined for a high-fashion context.

 

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