Off-White's debut at New York Fashion Week (SS25), under the creative direction of Ib Kamara, marked a milestone for the brand as it was its first show on American soil and the first since the death of its founder, Virgil Abloh. Held at a basketball court in Brooklyn with the New York skyline in the background, Kamara presented a show that fused multicultural and urban references. The collection, titled "Duty Free," reflected the diverse influences that have always characterized Off-White, highlighting the rich intersection between Africa, Europe, and the United States.
Kamara, born in Sierra Leone and raised in London, found inspiration in a trip to Ghana, where he explored the cultural roots he shared with Abloh. The collection featured a blend of sportswear, corsets, and African-inspired draping, drawing from traditional West African techniques used by women to wrap their waists. Kamara merged this aesthetic with elements of American urban fashion, creating a unique interpretation of Off-White’s style that remains true to its origins while also looking toward the future.
The show was not only notable for its innovative fashion but also for the high-profile guests and the diversity of the models on the runway. Celebrities like Zayn Malik, Mary J. Blige, and Camila Cabello attended, while figures like rapper NLE Choppa and Madonna's son, David Banda, walked the runway. This diversity, both in the audience and on the runway, underscored Off-White's commitment to its global community and its inclusive approach.
Kamara collaborated with Ghanaian artist Nana Danso, incorporating his designs into t-shirts, hoodies, and sneakers, adding a sense of African deity to the garment prints. Additionally, unexpected elements such as bottle caps and feathers were integrated into the collection, symbolizing the blend of the everyday with the artistic. These additions brought a unique and playful touch to the collection, elevating what might typically be considered streetwear to something more conceptual and sophisticated.
The influence of New York was key to the collection, according to Kamara, as the city is a melting pot of cultures, much like Off-White’s philosophy. The brand, which was founded in Paris but has always had a global spirit, fits perfectly into New York's vibrant landscape, where ideas and cultures are constantly blending. For Kamara, Off-White is a democratic and community-driven brand, something that New York also represents through its diversity and dynamism.