Lilian Navarro, a rising talent in the fashion world, has crafted a final collection that is as conceptually rich as it is visually striking. Drawing inspiration from the visual imagery of the United Nations General Assembly Hall, Navarro's work confronts the traditional notion of the suit, a symbol often associated with uniformity and globalization. Her approach is not merely about challenging the suit's conventional role, but rather about reimagining it through a fresh, innovative lens that defies complexity and standard norms.
Navarro’s ambition is to create a "protocol wardrobe" that mirrors the simplicity and formality of ceremonial attire, yet without being bound by the typical constraints of fashion design. This idea of a protocol wardrobe is central to her collection, where she seeks to dress individuals in a way that is both sophisticated and free from unnecessary complications. The collection is deeply rooted in Navarro’s previous explorations during her master’s studies, where she extensively worked with cardboard as a medium. Her earlier work focused on creating garments with folds, slits, and seamless construction techniques, using a variety of systems that she has now carried forward into her final collection.
One of the key innovations in Navarro’s collection is her introduction of new concepts surrounding patterns, particularly those involving cylindrical volumes. These patterns break away from traditional flat-pattern techniques, offering a more three-dimensional approach to garment construction. This method allows Navarro to explore shapes and forms that are not typically seen in conventional fashion design, pushing the boundaries of how clothing interacts with the human body.
Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of Navarro’s collection is her unconventional use of garment linings. In one of her standout pieces, the lining of the garment is given a prominent role, effectively becoming a garment in its own right. Navarro achieves this by removing part of the outer garment through a circular cut, exposing the lining and allowing it to take center stage. This technique subverts the usual function of linings, which are traditionally hidden and serve only as supportive elements. Instead, Navarro’s approach brings the interior of the garment to the forefront, making it an essential and visible part of the design.
This design philosophy draws a parallel to the architectural principles seen in the Centre Pompidou, designed by Renzo Piano. Just as the Centre Pompidou externalizes its internal structures, making them a celebrated aspect of its overall design, Navarro externalizes what is typically concealed within garments. By doing so, she challenges the conventional hierarchy of fashion design, where the outer appearance is prioritized over the internal structure. Her work encourages viewers and wearers to reconsider the significance of what is usually hidden, presenting the interior as an integral and unique element of the garment.