S.S. Daley’s Debut Womenswear Collection Celebrates Gluck with Innovative Designs and Historical References

S.S. Daley's debut womenswear collection, presented at London's Royal Academy, paid homage to the queer British painter Gluck (1895-1978), who has recently seen a resurgence in recognition. The collection, which marks Daley's first exclusive venture into womenswear, was heavily inspired by Gluck's work and their unique, often overlooked contributions to art. Gluck's self-portrait, prominently featured on the poster for Tate Britain's 2017 exhibition “Queer British Art,” may have served as a significant influence on Daley's creative vision for this collection.

The show’s minimalist setting, with vibrant flower vases atop plinths, provided a fitting backdrop for the collection’s exploration of Gluck’s universe. According to Stokey-Daley’s show notes, the collection aimed to delve deeply into womenswear techniques while reflecting the spirit of Gluck’s artistic and personal style. The collection featured feathered ties inspired by one of Gluck’s final paintings and drew on elements from Gluck’s own wardrobe, which was characterized by tailored, utilitarian pieces. This homage was reflected in the collection’s large wool coats and structured suiting.

Daley, known for including womenswear elements in his prior menswear collections, approached this debut womenswear line with a fresh perspective. It was notable how well Daley translated his distinctive style into garments specifically designed for women. Unlike many designers who transition from menswear to womenswear and end up producing pieces that seem like ill-fitting dress-ups, Daley successfully crafted a collection that understood and celebrated the female form. The capris and pleated dresses, new additions to Daley’s design repertoire, demonstrated his ability to adapt and innovate beyond his usual menswear boundaries.

Despite retaining some of his signature oversized suits, now rendered in corduroy and wool, Daley anchored the collection in a celebration of Gluck’s nonconformist approach to gender roles. This alignment with Gluck’s rejection of traditional gender norms was a core theme of the collection, making it a deeply personal and thoughtful tribute.

The debut womenswear collection comes shortly after Daley’s significant achievement of winning the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, further solidifying his impact on the fashion world despite the brand’s relatively young age. S.S. Daley, which has yet to celebrate its fifth anniversary, has already made a substantial mark with its innovative blend of menswear and womenswear, showcasing Daley’s exceptional design talents and his ability to honor influential figures through fashion.