At Milan Fashion Week, Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s creative director, showcased his Spring/Summer 2025 (SS25) collection with a vibrant tribute to the 1960s, offering a blend of retro influences and modern minimalism. This show, which marked De Sarno’s first anniversary at Gucci, took place at the iconic Triennale de Milano, where the venue was transformed into a chic yet understated space, representing sunset hues from white to the signature Gucci red, "Rosso Ancora". The setting complemented the collection’s nostalgic vibe, combining a classic 60s aesthetic with De Sarno's contemporary vision for Gucci.
The show’s invitation provided a hint of what was to come, featuring the Timor perpetual calendar designed by Italian artist Enzo Mari in 1967. This nod to the 60s was fitting for the retro inspiration that drove the collection, with De Sarno aiming to explore his fascination with the decade. The calendar's analogue design contrasted with today’s digital age, reflecting De Sarno's dedication to blending art, design, and tradition in his approach to fashion.
The front row (FROW) was a star-studded affair, with regulars such as Solange, Kirsten Dunst, and Mark Ronson returning from previous shows. Newer faces like Daisy Edgar-Jones joined them, while fashion icons like Debbie Harry and Dakota Johnson also made an appearance, adding to the excitement of the event. This focus on maintaining close relationships with celebrities and fashion insiders reinforces Gucci’s commitment to family and continuity under De Sarno’s leadership.
The collection itself was a love letter to the 1960s, with De Sarno channeling the era’s casual yet glamorous aesthetic. Models walked down the runway in thigh-skimming shift dresses in cream and chartreuse, wide-collared coats, and sequined partywear, all reminiscent of the carefree, swinging spirit of the 60s. Headscarves, adorned with patterns by 60s illustrator Vittorio Accornero de Testa, further accentuated the retro mood, evoking the elegance of old Hitchcock films.
Gucci’s iconic Bamboo bag, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in Japan, was also reimagined for the SS25 collection. The Bamboo motif was not only present in handbags but also in sleek jewelry that intertwined with the models' limbs, giving a modern twist to a classic design. The collection also introduced new accessories, including square-toed platform shoes and soft leather boots, as well as a more avant-garde item: the Gucci Go bag, a miniature handbag integrated into fingerless leather biker gloves, combining both utility and statement style.
De Sarno’s collection was more than just a trip down memory lane; it represented an evolution in his work with Gucci. In his own words, the SS25 collection was a "journey of construction," a step-by-step approach to building his vision for the brand. While the designs referenced Gucci’s rich heritage, they also felt deeply connected to the present. De Sarno described the collection as capturing "a precise moment in time," likening it to the fleeting beauty of a sunset at the end of a summer’s day, urging the audience to pause and appreciate life’s moments.
This emphasis on living in the present aligns with the broader theme of De Sarno’s tenure at Gucci, where he has consistently balanced tradition with innovation. While the SS25 collection draws heavily from the past, its timeless quality ensures that it remains relevant in today’s fast-paced world. De Sarno’s ability to blend casual elegance with bold creativity has solidified his place at Gucci, and this show highlighted his evolving approach to fashion design.