Simone Rocha SS25: A Bold Exploration of Gender, Floral Themes, and Timeless Elegance

Simone Rocha's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented with a dark, moody aesthetic, skillfully blends masculine and feminine elements, exploring themes of gender contrasts, floral symbolism, and the emotional spectrum of "Fear, Fun, and Control." This runway show marked another chapter in Rocha's exploration of femininity and identity, pushing boundaries while maintaining her signature romantic and delicate touch.

The collection unfolded in distinct segments, with the most impactful pieces focusing on gender contrasts. Rocha’s designs frequently juxtapose traditionally male and female elements, creating a visual dialogue between masculinity and femininity. One of the standout looks was a tailored black coat featuring dramatic thigh-high slits, worn by a model who embraced her torso in a vulnerable, yet powerful, pose. This piece embodied the central theme of the collection—an exploration of the tension between strength and fragility. The color palette for these looks was predominantly black, paired with soft, light pink tones. Materials such as tulle and organza added an ethereal quality, while ballet flats and knee-high socks contributed to the collection's sense of innocence and grace, hallmarks of Rocha's romantic style.

The second part of the show transitioned into a floral theme, with pink carnations taking center stage. These flowers were not just used as embellishments but were rendered in three-dimensional forms on sheer, translucent cover-ups. The dresses featured intricately crafted petals cascading down the fabric, emphasizing Rocha’s attention to detail and her ability to transform simple elements into works of art. The floral motifs adorned the chest compartments of dresses, adding a delicate yet bold dimension to the designs. Rocha further played with the idea of flowers by giving models floral bouquets with wrist straps, turning them into wearable accessories. This segment of the collection also introduced Rocha’s take on denim, with uniforms showcasing contrasting stitching and 90s-inspired embellished pants, highlighting her versatility and skill in combining different textures and styles.

Throughout the collection, Rocha explored the tension between simplicity and complexity. While the overall aesthetic remained understated, the designs were infused with charm and subtle intricacies. A key source of inspiration was the carnation, a flower traditionally associated with men and often worn with formal jackets. Rocha reinterpreted this symbol of masculinity, incorporating it into her vision of modern femininity. By doing so, she not only celebrated the beauty of this flower but also subverted traditional gender roles, further emphasizing the theme of contrasts between the sexes.

This SS25 collection encapsulated the essence of Simone Rocha’s design philosophy—blending the delicate with the bold, the feminine with the masculine, and the classic with the contemporary. Her mastery of balancing these opposing elements resulted in a collection that felt both timeless and fresh, appealing to those who appreciate fashion with depth and narrative. The thoughtful use of fabrics like tulle and organza, combined with Rocha's signature romantic silhouettes, ensured that her collection remained rooted in her distinct aesthetic while pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion norms.

In essence, Simone Rocha's SS25 collection was a study in contrasts—between hard and soft, masculine and feminine, structured and fluid. The use of carnations as a recurring motif tied the collection together, symbolizing both fragility and strength. Rocha’s ability to create designs that tell a story while maintaining their elegance and wearability is what makes her one of the most exciting designers in contemporary fashion. This collection not only reinforced her place as a master of romantic femininity but also demonstrated her capacity to evolve and experiment, making the SS25 collection a standout moment in her career.