Tolu Coker’s SS25 Collection Honors British-Nigerian Heritage and the Enduring Legacy of Family

Tolu Coker's SS25 collection is a tribute to her mother and the rich cultures within British-Nigerian communities. Named "Olapeju" in honor of her mother, the West London-born designer wanted to highlight the significant role Nigerian immigrants have played in shaping these communities, focusing on women who often went unrecognized compared to men, yet were the true pillars of family and community. For Coker, this collection is an invitation to see the world through her mother's eyes, representing her home and her role as a matriarch.

The collection will be presented in a setting that simulates a late 1970s British-Nigerian living room. For Coker, clothes are not just commodities, but part of a larger universe that reflects the history and emotions of the community. She grew up in a working-class family in the North Kensington estates, a place where political tensions and racism were palpable, but where immigrants found ways to create a warm, meaningful home. To the designer, it was crucial to place this collection within that emotional context, connecting the clothes with deeper, more personal experiences.

Coker’s design process is eclectic and doesn’t follow a straight path. She often starts with a feeling or emotion and builds the pieces of her collection from there. She describes her process as "organized chaos," where inspiration can come from anything, from sounds to family memories. The collection is also marked by the influence of her late father, a photographer who documented daily life and social movements within his community. While her father didn’t leave behind material wealth, his photos have become an invaluable emotional legacy for Coker, providing her with a personal and visual reference for her current designs.

Sustainability is also a key theme in Coker’s work. Looking at old family photos, the designer notices how people used to wear the same clothing in multiple settings, a stark contrast to today’s consumption mindset. For her, having an emotional connection to clothing transforms purchases into personal and cultural investments. This concept of reuse and emotional value, which Coker ties to her own upbringing, is central to her design philosophy.

Ultimately, Coker hopes that her mother feels seen and valued through this collection and that viewers reflect on the way they consume clothing. For Coker, fashion doesn’t need to be just a political statement or social movement; it can simply be a way to be more conscious and respectful, both of the clothes and the stories those garments carry.