We can all agree that fashion is expression, some can accept that personal choices are political, and few can say that they don’t care enough for those concepts. But the history of the fashion world has a reputation to run dry of ideas from time to time, and search “inspiration” elsewhere. Big maisons sometimes take elements from different cultures, and those choices at times can be heavily discussed, to say the least. Big corporations make millions profiting from important notions and objects of different small and big nations or communities worldwide. And here we find ourselves in the limits of a term that frightens the internet: cultural appropriation.
Brands, maisons and global enterprises in the fashion industry don’t shy away from blending western designs alongside native or historical designs from other countries. The internet lashes out on social networks such as Instagram and Tik-Tok when there are “small” cases of cultural appropriation, but generally big statements like the appropriation of embroidery elements from the Mixe Huipil on the Spring/Summer 2015 Étoile collection of Isabel Marant can be omitted or put under the rug in this industry.
Where lies the problem? We could speculate that consent is a big part of it. There is a big difference in asking for permission to use certain concepts or also making a deal to help specific communities with the profits obtained from the use of their reliques and designs. Opposite to just not say anything, take the concepts, use them and profit with it. As the example cited before, Isabel Marant did not ask the Mixe Huipil community for permission, nor compensate them or acknowledge them in any way, so her brand was signaled as guilty of cultural appropriation.
Beginning the year with the strong chinese symbol of the horse, Adidas launched a new collection of their trademarked tracksuit combo taking the traditional Chinese “Tang suit”, a historical garment coming from China’s Qing dynasty also similar to the “ma gua” used by horse riders from the 17th century. The jacket was first introduced in Shanghai’s fashion week and since then has gone viral especially amongst the Gen Z demographic. But since the idea (as far as we know) has originated in the Asian market, first being sold only in China and slowly expanding it until reaching Europe this February, portrays a different meaning. The source of inspiration is taken from a cultural background and exploited commercially but it is not a figure/company from another culture or society the one that takes it and exploits it.
Where do we land when it comes to cultural appropriation? Respect, rationality and justice must be a base for conviviality. These cases will keep on coming, and it is up to us to speak out for the ones that can’t and also join the voices that are already out there to fight against it happening. We don’t live in a fair world, but we can try to make the difference.
